Warp 46 – Design and Planning

A friend has requested a woollen ruana. We decided on the wavy line pattern of handwaving.net draft #44661.
The piece will be created in the same way as the ruana in Project 9. That is, two long pieces of fabric woven on a single warp that are stitched together down the centre back.
A single threading repeat (16 ends) will be about 2.5cm on loom.

Main warp yarn – Quality yarns 110/2 tex wool, Crimson + Saxon Yarns 2/30Nm wool, Bright red
Border warp & weft yarn – Saxon Yarns 2/30Nm wool, Buttercup
Main weft yarns – Tararua yarns 2/27 wool, New Melon & Lipstick

About halfway through winding the warp, I realised that I was going to run out of the Crimson warp, so I ordered a cone of Saxon Yarns 2/30Nm wool, Bright red. The colour is very similar, but the yarn is a little finer and softer. At the change over of the two yarns, I decreased the number of ends of the old yarn in hand while increasing the number of ends of new yarn so that the change in reds is not abrupt.
I had to wind the red in two warp chains as the mill could not hold all of the wraps required for a single warp chain.

Total ends – 1072 of main warp + 80 of border on each side (ie 160 ends – includes 2 for floating selvedges)
Wind warp with 5 ends in hand (215 wraps of mill gives 1075 ends) for main colour, and 4 ends in hand for borders. Two warp chains are required for the borders, one for each side.
Warp length – 6m (2 pieces 2m long + sampling + shrinkage + loom loss)
On loom width – 77.5cm, border will be ~5cm on each side.
EPI & PPI – 40
Spread raddle at 5/10 ends per slot for red (warped with 5 ends in hand) and 8/8 ends per slot for yellow (warped with 4 ends in hand).
Reed – 10dpi
Sley reed – 4 ends per dent

The threading is not balanced evenly between the shafts. I have 1232 ends in total, that is 77 pattern repeats (16 ends per repeat; includes the borders). In a single pattern repeat, three heddles are required on shafts 1, 3, 5 & 7 and a single heddle on shafts 2, 4, 6 & 8. That means I need 231 heddles on the odd shafts and 77 on the even shafts.

It was a little tricky to wind four warp chains (yellow border, two red chains, yellow border) onto the back beam while keeping tensions even.
Once this was done, I proceeded to spread the warp in the saddle (a single afternoon), threaded the heddles (4 afternoons), sleyed the reed (a single afternoon), tied to the front apron rod, tied up the treadles (including “tabby” treadles = 1,4,6,7 & 2,3,5,8) & checked the threading & wove header rows in tabby (a single afternoon). Another afternoon allowed me to hemstitch in lipstick on 2 rows of tabby, using groups of 4 warp ends – that’s 308 hemstitch knots!!