**This was intended to be the final piece, but a tension disaster meant that the fabric became a large sample.

I began by removing the extra warp ends heddles and hanging the ends off the back of the warp beam.
I removed 336 ends, that is 21 pattern repeats (that was 112 reed slots at 3 ends per dent). This took me to the start of the warp ends were old and new yarn were blended together.
I rethreaded the yellow border ends through the reed so that they would be at the edge of the new fabric. I also slid the heddles across the shafts so the the warp was as centred on the loom as possible.
I now have a total of 896 warp ends (1232-336) at 30epi = ~74.5cm in reed.

The warp was tied to the front apron rod, header rows woven and the beginning of the fabric was hemstitched.
I wove the yellow border so that the solid yellow corners were square.
In the beginning, I was beating a little hard (43ppi); next was 25epi.
After weaving the yellow border, I switched to “New melon” and wove for about 35cm; this gave me about 40cm of fabric.

I had been having issues with the tension of the red warp ends where they were angling from the warp beam to the heddles and reed because of the 336 ends that were still on the warp beam and hanging off the back of the loom.

I had the brilliant idea of winding all of the warp from the warp beam onto the cloth beam, removing the extra ends from the warp beam, spreading the warp evenly across the beam, winding all of the warp back from the cloth beam onto the warp beam and continuing with the weaving of the fabric. This would mean that I don’t have to reread heddles or resley the reed.
BUT after about about 10cm of winding, all that happened was a snarl of ends at the heddles as threads of under different tensions tangled. Several warp ends were broken as a result.
So I unsnarled everything and wound the warp back onto the warp beam.
BUT I couldn’t get the warp tension even again, so the fell line was bent – high at the edges and low at the centre.

I left the room and came back the next day.
I decided to tie up the tabby treadles (1467 & 2358), and have husband depress the treadles while I re-inserted lease sticks behind the heddles.
I was then able to wind the entire warp carefully onto the cloth beam. There were still snarls every few turns of the warp beam, but none were as bad as without the lease sticks.
All broken warp ends were simply removed.

Once the warp was all on the cloth beam, I removed the excess warp ends and spread the warp evenly across the warp beam. Next, I went to the back of the loom and pulled hard on ~2cm sections warp, cut the ends close to the warp apron rod and tied an overhand knot near the end.
Once all of the warp ends were cut and tied with an overhand knot, I lashed the knots to the warp apron rod with a length of hemp twine (see image below).
The warp was then wound smoothly back onto the warp beam.

The next step was to remove the 40cm of fabric so far woven and then pull all warp ends from the reed and heddles.
The warp will be rethreaded through the heddles and the reed resleyed at 30epi (3 ends per dent). I will then tie overhand knots in the ends and lash them to the front warp apron rod so that I am able to begin weaving again with the smallest loss of warp length possible.

Once the fabric was off the loom, I machine zig-zagged the raw edge. I then wet finished the fabric (hand washed with excess water removed by spinning in the washing machine).

The finished fabric is lovely – soft and drapey. I gave it to the person who has commissioned this piece – she loves it and may sew it into a beret (unfortunately, I gave it away before measuring and photographing it).

I measured the length of the warp ends that I removed – they are 4.5m long. This is the length of the entire warp when I started weaving this piece of fabric. So if I subtract the length of woven cloth (40cm) from the length of the excess warp ends (4.5m), I will get the approximate length of the warp remaining on the loom. So I have about 4m of warp left.
Let’s assume that gives me 340cm of useable warp, so 170cm of cloth can be woven for each half of the finished garment with a 5cm gap left between pieces.
I will hemstitch and weave
85cm of border + colour
85cm of other colour + border
hemstitch
leave a 5cm gap for fringes on each piece
hemstitch
85cm of border + colour
85cm of other colour + border
hemstitch

Fringes at the beginning and end of the entire warp will come from header rows (beginning) and loom-loss in the heddles (end).